How to Set Up an Indoor Aquatic Turtle Habitat

Creating a thriving indoor aquatic turtle habitat involves more than just filling a tank with water. It requires careful planning and attention to detail to ensure your turtle has a safe, healthy, and stimulating environment. From selecting the right tank size and filtration system to providing proper lighting and a balanced diet, each element plays a crucial role in the well-being of your shelled friend. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the essential steps to set up an ideal indoor aquatic turtle’s habitat, helping you create a comfortable home where your turtle can flourish.

Aquarium Size

Choosing the appropriate aquarium size is crucial for the health and happiness of your aquatic pet turtle. A common rule of thumb is to provide at least 10 gallons of water per inch of the turtle’s shell length. For instance, a turtle that grows up to 6 inches will need at least a 60-gallon tank. This space allows for proper swimming and exploration, essential for the turtle’s physical and mental well-being. It’s also important to consider that turtles grow over time, so selecting a larger tank initially can save you the hassle of upgrading later. Additionally, a spacious tank helps maintain better water quality (turtles are messy), reducing the frequency of cleanings and promoting a healthier environment for your turtle.

For baby or hatchling turtles, a 20-gallon turtle tank will suffice as a great starter. As they grow, they will need a larger enclosure. For adult turtles, a turtle tank of 75 gallons or more becomes essential. It offers abundant water depth for swimming and a spacious land area for basking. I recommend purchasing an aquarium at a local pet store rather than online, as online it will be much more expensive. You will want a fish aquarium rather than a reptile terrarium, as fish tanks have thicker glass to hold all the water, and terrariums usually have thinner glass.

Turtle tank sizing guide:

Size of Turtle	Aquarium Size
1-2 inches	20 gallons
3-4 inches	40 gallons
4-6 inches	55 gallons
6-8 inches	75 gallons
9-10 inches	100 gallons
11-13 inches	125 gallons

If you are keeping more than one turtle, you will add an additional 50%. For example, if you have two 6-inch turtles, you will need a tank size of 90 gallons.

Here are some common turtle species and their average adult sizes, so you can get an idea of what size tank you may require when full grown. Females generally get larger than males.

Red-Eared Slider (Trachemys scripta elegans) – Average Adult Size: 6-12 inches
Painted Turtle (Chrysemys picta) – Average Adult Size: 4-10 inches
Yellow-Bellied Slider (Trachemys scripta scripta) – Average Adult Size: 5-11 inches
Map Turtle (Graptemys spp.) – Average Adult Size: 3.5-10 inches (depending on species)
Musk Turtle (Sternotherus odoratus) – Average Adult Size: 3-5 inches
Reeve’s Turtle (Mauremys reevesii) – Average Adult Size: 6-9 inches
Cooter Turtle (Pseudemys spp.) – Average Adult Size: 9-13 inches
Diamondback Terrapin (Malaclemys terrapin) – Average Adult Size: 5-9 inches
Softshell Turtle (Apalone spp.) – Average Adult Size: 5-24 inches (depending on species)
African Sideneck Turtle (Pelusios castaneus) – Average Adult Size: 7-12 inches

Where in your home to place the tank

Selecting the ideal location for your turtle tank within your home is essential for both the turtle’s well-being and the convenience of maintenance. Choose a spot that is away from direct sunlight to prevent overheating and excessive algae growth. Avoid high-traffic areas to reduce stress for your turtle and minimize the risk of accidental bumps or vibrations that could disturb the tank.

A stable, sturdy surface capable of supporting the tank’s weight is crucial, as a filled tank can be very heavy. One gallon of water weighs roughly 8.34 pounds (3.78 kilograms). Additionally, place the tank near electrical outlets to accommodate heaters, filters, and lighting equipment, ensuring all cords and devices are safely managed to prevent hazards.

Filtration

Effective filtration is vital for maintaining a healthy aquatic turtle tank, as turtles produce a significant amount of waste. A robust filtration system helps to keep the water clean, clear, and free from harmful toxins. It is recommended to use a filter rated for at least twice the tank’s volume to handle the high bioload. For instance, if you have a 50-gallon tank, opt for a filter designed for at least 100 gallons.

A combination of mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration is ideal. Mechanical filtration removes solid waste, chemical filtration eliminates dissolved impurities, and biological filtration fosters beneficial bacteria that break down ammonia and nitrites. Regular maintenance of the filter, including cleaning and replacing media as needed, ensures optimal performance and a healthy environment for your turtle.

Canister filters

Canister filters are an excellent choice for maintaining clean and healthy water in turtle tanks. These external filters offer superior filtration capacity compared to many internal or hang-on-back filters, making them ideal for the high waste output of aquatic turtles. Canister filters do not take up any space inside the aquarium as they are external. Depending on the stand you keep your tank on, you can keep the filter underneath the tank. Canister filters use a combination of mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration to effectively remove debris, toxins, and harmful bacteria from the water. Their multi-stage filtration systems allow for customizable media setups. The downside is they can be more expensive, but I think it’s worth it.

Some good ones are Fluval, Marineland, and Penn-Plax.

Internal filters

Internal filters are a convenient and compact option for turtle tanks, particularly suitable for smaller setups or as supplementary filtration. These filters are fully submerged in the tank, so they will take up some space. They often combine mechanical and biological filtration, with some models including chemical filtration as well. Internal filters are efficient at removing debris and maintaining water quality, but they may require more frequent cleaning due to their smaller size and lower capacity compared to external filters.

Some good ones are the Marineland Magnum Polishing Internal Canister Filter, good for up to a 50-gallon size tank, and the Penn-Plax Cascade 600 good for up to 25-gallon tank size.

Hang-on-back (HOB) filters

HOB filters are a popular choice for turtle tanks. These filters hang on the back of the tank, drawing water up through an intake tube, passing it through various filter media, and then returning the cleaned water back into the tank. The main advantages of HOB filters include their affordability, accessibility for maintenance, and ability to handle moderate waste loads efficiently.

However, they do have some drawbacks. HOB filters can be noisy, which might be disturbing in a quiet environment, and their capacity is often limited compared to canister filters, making them less suitable for larger tanks or heavily stocked setups. The biggest drawback is HOB filters only work if the aquarium is completely full of water. In this kind of setup, you would need a basking area that is above the aquarium.

Good hang-on-back filters are the Marineland Penguin Bio-Wheel Power Filter and AquaClear Power Filter, both good for up to 40-gallon tank size.

Heating and Temperature Ranges

Maintaining the proper temperature in a turtle tank is essential for the health and well-being of your turtle. Most species thrive in water temperatures ranging from 75-82°F (24-28°C), with basking areas set at a warmer 85-90°F (29-32°C) to allow the turtle to thermoregulate effectively. Make sure to research the species you are planning to keep for the exact correct temperatures. For example, musk turtles like their basking area a little cooler at 80-85°F (27-29°C).

Monitor the water temperature with an aquarium thermometer, and if needed, use a submersible aquarium heater to maintain a consistent water temperature. Correct temperatures are crucial for digestion, immune function, and overall activity levels.

You want to provide a basking light or heat emitter with the appropriate wattage to ensure that the basking spot reaches the necessary warmth. The wattage you need depends on how big of an area needs to be heated. You will want a thermometer to measure the temperature of the basking area. Heat options include ceramic heat emitters, which are great because they do not emit light so they can be used at night, and they last a long time. This is the fixture I put my heat emitter in: Zoo Med Repti Porcelain Clamp Lamp. Another option is Zoo Med Nightlight Red Reptile Bulb which emits a red light and can also be used at nighttime. You will also need a fixture to put the bulb in.

Proper heating not only supports metabolic processes but also mimics the natural habitat conditions, promoting a healthier and more active turtle.

Basking Area

Basking areas are crucial for aquatic turtles, providing a dry area and warm spot where they can dry off completely, regulate their body temperature, and absorb essential UVB rays necessary for calcium metabolism and shell health. See the above section for heating options for the basking area and the section below on UVB lighting for the basking area.

There are several options to create an effective basking area in your turtle tank. Commercial basking platforms, which attach to the side of the tank with suction cups, are a popular and convenient choice. Floating docks, made from non-toxic materials, can rise and fall with the water level, ensuring easy access for your turtle. Custom-built basking spots using smooth river rocks, driftwood, bricks, or acrylic can also be tailored to fit your tank’s dimensions and aesthetic. Another option is an above-tank basking area to provide ample space and prevent overcrowding in the water.

Regardless of the type, it’s important to position a heat lamp above the basking area to maintain a temperature of 85-90°F (29-32°C), ensuring your turtle has a comfortable and beneficial basking experience.

The basking area needs to be big enough that the entire turtle will be able to come out of the water and dry off completely, and it needs to be easy for the turtle to climb onto.

There are many DIY ways you can create a basking area. For years, I made a basking area out of a pile of bricks. You can buy bricks at the hardware store and stack them however you want. I like to stack them like stair steps, so they can climb up to the top easily. They are easy to clean, but debris can get trapped behind and between them.

I made a Pinterest board with a bunch of ideas: DIY Turtle Basking Area

This is an excellent video to easily make your own.

If you don’t want to DIY, there are a few options available for purchase.

Here are some good commercial platforms: Penn-Plax Reptology floating basking platform (they come in different sizes and even have corner options) and hanging turtle basking platforms.

Here is a really great above tank basking platform: Penn-Plax Reptology Turtle Topper

Lighting and UVB

Proper lighting and UVB are crucial for maintaining the health of aquatic turtles. Aquatic turtles need a balanced light cycle that mimics their natural environment, typically involving 10-12 hours of light per day and darkness for the other hours. I recommend using a timer to stay consistent and so you don’t have to remember to turn them on and off all the time.

A UVB bulb is essential as it helps turtles synthesize vitamin D3, which is necessary for calcium absorption and preventing metabolic bone disease. UVB bulbs should be replaced every six months, as their effectiveness diminishes over time even if the light is still visible. You want to place the UVB lighting over their basking area to ensure they get enough exposure. Do not have anything between the UVB and the turtle such as glass or plexiglass as that will block the UVB rays they need.

Zoo Med Reptisun 10.0 UVB Mini Compact Fluorescent is the kind I use in a Zoo Med Naturalistic Terrarium Hood, which you can put 2 bulbs in (I put a red heat bulb in mine), or a clamp-on fixture.

Substrate

You do not want to use any substrate that can be ingested and cause impaction. Not using any substrate at all is a great option! A bare-bottom tank is easier to keep clean. Turtles are messy, and substrates will trap debris and make it harder to clean.

If you do want substrate, smooth river rocks are an option. You want them large enough they cannot be ingested, at least 1/2 inch (15 mm). Debris will accumulate between the rocks, so you will need to clean that up occasionally.

Aquarium gravel is an option, but is not recommended as it can sometimes pose a risk. The turtle might ingest some, which could lead to impaction and other health issues. Also, cleaning these substrates is definitely a task.

Sand can be another option and is quite popular. If you have a softshell turtle, you definitely want sand as they love to burrow in it. Pool filter sand and play sand are options, just make sure you rinse and clean it well before adding it to the tank. Another sand option is CaribSea Super Naturals aquarium sand that comes in different colors. Cleaning sand is also a chore!

Water Depth

The water depth in an aquatic turtle tank is a key factor in ensuring the health and happiness of your turtle. Generally, the water should be deep enough for the turtle to swim comfortably and fully submerge, which promotes exercise and reduces stress. For baby turtles, shallow waters keep them safe, as they’re not as proficient swimmers as adults. As these small turtles grow into the juvenile stage, their adeptness in navigating deeper waters increases significantly. Moving on to adult turtles, they revel in the freedom deeper waters provide, engaging in more complex swimming and diving activities. As your turtle grows, so should the depth of their aquatic environment.

A good rule of thumb is to provide a water depth at least twice the length of the turtle’s shell, allowing ample space for swimming and diving. However, the specific depth may vary based on the species. For example, musk turtles prefer shallower water, around 8-12 inches, due to their less proficient swimming abilities, while species like red-eared sliders and painted turtles thrive in deeper water, around 12-18 inches or more.

Decor

Decorating an aquatic turtle tank is not only about aesthetics but also about creating a stimulating and natural environment for your turtle. Safe decoration options include plastic plants, live plants, large rocks, driftwood, and hiding spots. When using plastic plants, ensure they are specifically designed for aquarium use, as they are made from non-toxic materials that won’t harm your turtle.

Live plants can also be a great addition, providing natural filtration and enrichment. Suitable live aquatic plants for a turtle tank that are hardy and can thrive in the same conditions as turtles include Arrowhead, Canadian Pondweed, Common Eel Grass, Crystalwort, Hair Grass, Java Fern, Java Moss, Hornwort, Moneywort, Moss balls, Red Ludwigia, Water Hyacinth, Water Lettuce, Water Trumpet. These plants can withstand the occasional nibble from turtles, but it’s possible your turtle will completely destroy them if they want to; it depends on the turtle.

Water Quality and Cleaning

Maintaining water quality in an aquatic turtle tank is crucial for the health and well-being of your turtle. Regular cleaning and maintenance are necessary to keep the water clean and free of harmful toxins. Use a high-quality filtration system to remove debris and waste and perform partial water changes of about 25-30% weekly to maintain optimal water parameters. Remove uneaten food and waste promptly to prevent water contamination. A siphon water changer is very helpful. You will occasionally want to scrub down the tank, decorations, basking platform, etc., especially if any algae is building up. Check the filter regularly to ensure it’s functioning properly. Make sure the water you put in the tank is free of chlorine. I use API Tap Water Conditioner for this.

Consistent maintenance not only keeps the tank clean but also creates a healthier environment that supports your turtle’s overall health and longevity.

Escape Proofing

Escape-proofing a turtle tank is essential to ensure the safety of your turtle and to prevent them from wandering off and getting lost or injured. Turtles are surprisingly adept climbers and can easily escape from inadequately secured tanks. To prevent this, use a secure, tightly-fitting lid made of mesh or another sturdy material that allows for proper ventilation. Ensure that the lid has no gaps or loose edges that a determined turtle could exploit. Additionally, make sure the tank walls are high enough and smooth, without any decorations or equipment close to the edges that the turtle could use as leverage to climb out. Check that all cables, tubing, and other accessories are securely attached and do not provide a climbing route. Regularly inspect the tank for any potential escape points and make adjustments as necessary to keep your turtle safely contained within its habitat.

Protection from Kids and Other Pets

Protecting pet turtles from young children and other pets is crucial for the safety of both the turtles and the household members. Turtles can be fragile and easily stressed by excessive handling, so it’s important to educate children on how to interact with them gently and respectfully. Some turtles will bite too, so make sure to protect little fingers from getting bitten. Supervise any interactions to prevent rough handling, dropping, or attempts to remove the turtle from its tank. Additionally, ensure the turtle tank is placed in a secure location where other pets such as dogs and cats cannot access it. Use a sturdy tank stand and a secure lid to prevent pets from knocking over or accessing the tank. Creating a designated, safe space for your turtle helps minimize stress and ensures a harmonious environment for all household members.

Suitable Tankmates for Turtles

Selecting safe tankmates for a pet aquatic turtle requires careful consideration to ensure compatibility and the well-being of all inhabitants. Generally, fish that are fast-swimming and not overly aggressive can coexist with turtles, though it is always a risk as turtles may view smaller fish as food. Species like tetras, zebra danios, guppies, tiger bars, or certain types of cichlids can sometimes work, but they should be introduced cautiously and observed closely.

Snails can be a beneficial addition, as they help with algae control and clean-up, but larger species like apple snails are recommended to avoid being eaten.

It’s important to avoid placing slow-moving or delicate fish, such as goldfish or bettas, as they are likely to be harassed or harmed by the turtle. Additionally, providing ample hiding spots and ensuring the tank is large enough to accommodate all inhabitants can reduce stress and potential conflicts. Regular monitoring and being prepared to separate tankmates if issues arise are key to maintaining a harmonious aquatic environment.